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Transformers Two Disc
It was love at first sight. I was instantly smitten. I had wandered, who knows by what quirk of fate, into "In Design" in Chester and even now many years on I can still remember the feeling of being awe-struck by the warren of rooms displaying, for the most part the amazing furniture of Tim Stead.
That was my first sight of a wooden hinge and I'm quite sure that somewhere deep within me some sort of seed was planted.
My first box didn't actually have wooden hinges at all. Conventional brass butts (silver plated) did the business. The beautiful piece of burr elm that I was using was far from conventional and though I didn't realise it at the time it was begging for a hinge that was altogether more rugged.
It was only when I saw a chest by "Waywood" that the path ahead seemed to take shape.
My first wooden hinge was basically a "chest hinge" in wood. I used a router with a "Leigh" jig to cut the slots, drilled the holes from both sides and then radiused the ends. These hinges, though, had to be square and perfectly aligned in all planes. More often than not though, they weren't, so it was then a case of many tedious hours of taking them off, shaving the high spots, refitting them and then repeating the whole process until they worked. These days I've changed around the way I make them. I drill the hole first and if it runs off parallel (which it usually does) the machine vice is tilted slightly and it's redrilled. The slots are then cut using a router mounted under a table by passing the hinge across the cutter clamped to a mitre fence. They are then radiused using a jig on the sanding disc. The hinges are counterbored and screwed to the lid and back, checked, and if everything operates smoothly the knuckles are sanded and the pivot is glued in place.
Mark two hinge is an altogether simpler affair. A wooden pivot in the end of the lid with the "stop" provided by the shape of the lid. The sides are drilled before the box is glued up, then the lid is planed and sanded to an exact fit and then drilled making certain that the drill is parallel to the top and back. The pegs are planed from square section material with a slight taper. The lid can then be checked that it's operating properly before the pegs are pushed home with a drop of glue and cut to length.
Another of my hinges is a little bit like the first in that it's cut in the same way but both halves of this one are radiused and it's used on the back of the box. The box is made in the traditional way with the lid and bottom fixed. The back is then routed out to the exact width of the hinge and the box can then be cut into two. The hinge is drilled and counterbored so that it can be fixed in place and checked before being finally fitted.
I recently had the opportunity of looking at a hinge making jig which I understand is fairly new on the market. To describe it as a jig is perhaps a bit of an overstatement. A set of instructions and a block of aluminium to guide a drill bit is what you get for your money.
My quarrel with this device is that the end result is a wooden butt hinge! Wood copying metal. To my mind a wooden hinge has got to be something more than just a large version of a metal one.
I love the idea of the all wood box and my mind is always ranging ahead looking for new possibilities and new hinges and every time I find one I'm foolish enough to think that there can't possibly be any more ways of pivoting a wooden lid - but then along comes another.
When I spoke to Tim Stead about his wooden hinges he told me about Alan Brown who was "the extraordinary force" behind "In Design" who pushed the wooden hinge forward. "While he was always positive and excited about a piece" Tim told me, "he always wanted to question it, to push it forward and improve it".
Sadly both Alan Brown and Tim Stead have now died but it is clear that their enthusiasm and spirit still shine clear and bright.
Talking to Barnaby Scott of Waywood he recalled that "we first started to make wooden hinges when we were doing a series of sculptured chests. They were each shaped differently but all had a distinctly organic feel that was heightened by the choice of wood and finish- generally elm or oak, and the oil and/or wax finishes that we use exclusively. The organic woody character of these pieces seemed to cry out against the use of standard metal (especially brass) hardware which we woodworkers so often reach for without thinking.
Thus the Waywood version of the wooden hinge was born. We were well aware that wooden hinges had been made for centuries, but deliberately did no research into them so that we could design and make our own versions uninhibitedly."
Peter Lloyd - Fine Hardwood Boxes
http://www.finehardwoodboxes.co.uk
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